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Taking
the time to check over your boat occasionally is the
best way to save on costly repairs and reduce "depreciation"
or loss of value. Most major problems that I encounter
in doing surveys are the result of a condition that
could have been prevented, had the boat owner been
aware of what was happening. In other cases there
are some very simple and cost effective steps you
can take to preserve value and keep your boat looking
good longer. Things that in the long run will improve
resale value.
-Anchor
Windlasses
- Rusted
Water Heaters
- Deck
Leaks
- Upholstery
Wear
- Instrument
Panels
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Anchor Windlasses
I encounter large
numbers of windlasses that don't work. The most common
reason is because water leaked onto the drive motor
or electrical controls. A common reason this occurs
is that the boat builder did not install the winch
properly. There may be a rope locker hatch nearby
that leaks water onto the unit.
Yet another reason
stems from people applying too much strain on the
windlass. When this happens, it breaks the bedding
seal under the winch base and then water starts leaking
onto the motor. You need to periodically check the
windlass motor and controls. If you see rust developing
on the motor, that means you've got a leak and if
you don't do something about it soon, you'll be facing
an expensive replacement.
When you have a stuck
anchor, don't try to free it with the windlass. Instead,
tie off the anchor rode and go forward under power
to free it.
If you have electrical
control boxes that are getting wet from a leaking
hatch, try using covering them with some plastic sheet
to keep the water off. Keep in mind that winches have
very high amperage draws and that corroded wire connections
can develop high resistance that can start a fire,
so keep all terminal connections clean.
Rusted Water Heaters
Rusted water heaters
are another common problem. Water heaters most often
get rusty and damaged for one of two reasons. (1)
they often don't have a drain hose attached to the
pressure relief valve which will discharge water occasionally
and cause the base of the heater to rust. This water
will be picked up by the fiberglass insulation in
the heater and often work its way up to the controls.
Make sure that the relief valve has a drain hose that
carries the discharge safely into the bilge. (2) Water
heater sits on a deck that gets flooded with water.
Same thing happens as #1 above. To prevent this, obtain
a couple of small blocks of Starboard plastic and
mount the heater up on shims so that if the deck gets
wet, the bottom of the heater doesn't.
Deck Leaks
With the popularity
of express style cruisers these days, cockpit deck
leaks are a major source of damage to engine room
components. In some cases, the leaking is so severe
that engine damage occurs. I recently ran into a case
where a deck leak was putting water directly into
the air intake of a $35,000 diesel engine. From the
rust on the engine, it was obvious what was happening,
and equally obvious that the boat owner simply wasn't
paying attention.
Go down into your engine
compartment occasionally with a flashlight. Just sit
there for a few minutes looking around. Anytime you
see corrosion of metals and water stains, that is
telling you that there are leaks. I constantly find
leaks on boats going into things like battery chargers,
pumps, motors, alternators and all sorts of electrical
apparatus. If allowed to continue, this is going to
result in serious damage and probably breakdowns at
sea.
While there is no one
common source of leaks, it often results from the
use of a high pressure hose when washing down. Most
hatch covers cannot withstand a blast from hose nozzle.
The water will be blasted over the hatch gutter. Therefore,
never use a hose nozzle when washing the cockpit deck.
Another common source
of big leaks is clogged hatch gutter drains. These
things can clog up very easily, and when they do,
very large amounts of water will enter the engine
room that can cause a lot of damage. What often happens
is that the overflow gets into the insulation on the
underside of the deck. Then it exits the insulation
at some other location, thereby fooling you as to
the source of the leak. I often see water dripping
from above on a hot sunny day, which tips me off right
away as to what is happening.
You should inspect
and clean hatch gutters virtually every time you go
aboard. It only takes a minute or so to do this. Clogged
drains can be quickly freed by using water pressure
from a hose. and is almost guaranteed to save you
thousands of dollars if you're attentive to this little
detail.
Upholstery Wear
I find it mind boggling
the number of boats I go aboard that have thousands
of dollars worth of rather delicate upholstery sitting
out in the sun and rain. Many people seem to have
the mistaken notion that this stuff is weather
proof. Well, you just look at that stuff when it's
a couple years old and you'll see that it isn't. On
the other hand, once in a while I run across
a boat that has 10 year old upholstery that is in
great condition.
Why? Because the owner
took care of it, thereby saving himself thousands
of dollars worth of replacements, or resulting in
getting a much better price on resale because his
cockpit doesn't resemble a 1972 Cadillac convertible
that has been left out in the rain for 10 years. That
may be a silly pun, but I see a lot of boats that
accurately fit that description.
There are a few very
simple things you can do. First, remove all loose
cockpit cushions and stand them on edge in a protected
location - in the cabin or under the top. If they
do get wet, standing them on edge will keep them from
absorbing water. Keep in mind that most people do
not want to put up cockpit covers, so they leave this
stuff sitting out. A much easier way to deal with
non removable cushions is to have covers made for
them, as small covers are a lot easier to deal with
than large ones. Also, for that seating that gets
a lot of wear and tear (like on exposed corners),
such as large helm bench seats, have custom
fit canvass covers made for them. This will cut down
on excessive wear and keep them looking good longer.
Note: If you get covers
made for aft cockpit or bridge seats, be sure to have
them made to fit the shape of the seat. The
difference in cost between a fitted cover and
a draped cover is very little. That way, you'll still
be able to sit on the seat without removing the covers,
and you'll find yourself taking them off and putting
them on a lot less. The seats won't get dirty when
you're forced to step on them, or use them for tables,
and will stay nice looking a lot longer.
Instrument Panels
Not long ago I saw
a neat idea that prompted me to wonder "why didn't
I think of that?" It was a snap on instrument
panel cover with eisenglas windows in it so you could
see the instruments, etc. Like a soft keypad, you
could even work the rocker switches under the eisenglas.
This is a great idea
for keeping salt spray off of instrument panels. So
great, in fact, that the panel on this 10 year old
boat looked like new.
Many boats have plastic
materials on the instrument panels that are very sensitive
to sun light. Plastic simulated wood grains and so
on. And many people never bother to cover them, even
when covers are supplied with the boat. Or the panel
may have a plexiglas cover that allows water to run
underneath it, resulting in corroded gauges, wiring
and connections because the leaks go right through
the panel. It's your money and you don't need me to
tell you what you should
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